Air compressor how long to fill tank

Conduct periodic maintenance to ensure all of the filters on your air compressor are clean. Replace filters as often as recommended or necessary based on your environment. The initial — and simplest steps — are ensuring your air demand settings are adjusted to the appropriate level and checking for potential leaks.

Leaks are a common culprit. Survey your air tank and replace the tank if you discover leaks. Ensure air tube fittings are tightened appropriately. Make sure the inlet valve is able to open completely and the drain valve at the bottom of the air tank is sealed tightly. You can also assess oil passthrough by opening your drain valve and looking for oily residue. While every oil or lubricant-based compressed air system will experience a natural level of oil carryover, the amount of oil that appears in the air tank should be minimal.

After checking the inlet and drain valves, make sure the safety valve is not leaking or experiencing any problems. This is especially important considering that the safety valve opens to relieve excess air pressure in the case that the pressure switch fails to turn off the compressor at the cut-out pressure setting.

If your machine is plateauing around PSI, this may be an indicator of a problem with the reed valve. The reed valve can be found on the top of each cylinder. To replace the valve, loosen the cap screws, remove, disassemble, replace the reed valves and gaskets and reattach the head plates to the cylinder. If your compressor operates on a belt-drive, a belt malfunction may be the culprit for low pressure. If it were mine I would back off the pressure switch to psi cutoff.

If you want to get anal about this plot a time to pressure graph and you'll see that it will almost level out at If you extraploate out to you'll find you may never make it. Thanks Larry- I put it back on and it got to , but its been hung up there for about 10 minutes now.

So let me ask this- if while it is running, I slowly move that red lever the cutoff switch will it shut down on at that level? I notice that in my very useless manual, it states not to mess with this switch, but I assume that this is to prevent people from trying to get MORE than the max PSI out of the machine. I assume I would be ok to move it in a direction that made it shut down at psi, right? So lets say the compressor never gets above Did I get a bad unit, or is it typical for them to not reach their stated max level?

Last edited: Feb 26, Compact said:. Click to expand Sucks that it didn't come properly set then. So can I actually move the adjustment screw while the unit is running to get the cutoff point right? Skin Well-known member. Joined Feb 24, Messages 11, Location Boston. There are live leads in it. Unplug it, back the screw off a turn or two, turn it back on. Wash rinse repeat until you get to the desired pressure.

For what its worth it wont blow up in your face so stop worrying. It has relief valves for a reason and i'd be willing to bet the pump wouldnt be able to generate enough pressure to cause the tank to fail in any normal amount of time [e. Should take about 5 minutes to fill to psi. I believe that if you really read the fine print you'll fine the tank is rated for , and not the compressor. Like I said in opening of first post most single stage pumps will max out at just above Some pressure switches have two adjustments, one which controls when the motor is shut off when the pressure is enough, and the other controls at what pressure the motor comes back on.

Typically off at and on at , for example. So you must make sure you are adjusting the correct screw, and realize there is a bit of interaction between the two, if it is this type of pressure switch. Zeke Well-known member. No need to baby sit it but no need to continue to use something that is not working properly and using up electricity.

The unit should not run for 10 minutes continuously. I wouldn't let mine run that long using tools. I have when painting, but it doesn't do them any good to get that hot. Check for air leaks with soapy water before tearing into the adjustment. Then return the unit before messing around with it or your warranty is gonna be void. FWIW, I adjust mine down to and they last longer. Having said that, sometimes it does seem to take a while to shut off when it gets close to it's max-set pressure and I understand your apprehension!

Contrary to what someone said above, on mine anyway, the pressure shut-off adjuster CAN be adjusted while it's running and WILL shut it down if adjusted downward while pressurizing.

I've done it. My 2-stage machine has a max of psi but was factory-set to shut off at psi. I played with it and set it at psi - just because. I'd be VERY surprised if yours wasn't set properly from the factory - maybe you got trust issues! Torque1st Well-known member.

Don't mess with the factory pressure settings. Sorry, but you obviously are way beyond your skill and knowledge levels here. Contact the factory or distributor if you have concerns about the pumping time.

Did you do the 20 minute run-in procedure as specified on page 8 of your manual?? This run-in period ensures proper break-in, including mating the pistn rings to the cylinder so that they have minimal leakage and the pump will reach max pressure.

That said, there's no reason to run that compressor to psi, is more than enough, and if you find the pressure switch is ajustable I would adjust it down some.

Thanks for all the responses. I called the tech support and they confirmed what everyone here is saying- that it should only run to about psi. The problem is that it took awhile to get up to , and it never shut down. Now, PSI is 8. So, the pump must push 8. Have you checked the motor and pulleys to verify the pump is turning at ? Is the motor V? Or if V, what amperage is the circuit? How about leaks? Belt s tension correct?

Maybe you could put up a couple or four pix of it including the motor plate? Yes the pump box and I have verified the pump is turning RPM at least it is when it starts. The motor is volts only says 3. I have no measured the amps. Note: link did not work and has been removed. Please add another comment and use the image uploader to add the photo s here. I bought a replacement … Read more ».

Anyway, sounds like possibly a bad tank check valve. Is it single or two stage? Would it be safe to put the oem pelt and pulley on it and run at rpm? And you got the using a tach? I think something else is going on. What pump are you trying to using, anyway? Could it be mislabeled? RPM checked with a photo tach. I initially tested it with the guards off so there was already reflective tape on it. That time was just to make sure my pulleys were ok. I found a really cool site with pulley formulas just plug in the numbers, NICE.

I tried to pop the oem one off with a few hammer taps but … Read more ». The calculator at blocklayer. Shipping to AK HI is a pain.